If you want to improve your home (and its value), it is important to look at every aspect of your house. Here are a few tips to help get you started.

Before spending hundreds or even thousands of rands on gardening and plants, make sure you start with the basics. The roof is a major part of your house and is often neglected when it comes to home improvement. Make sure there are no missing tiles and that the roof is sealed everywhere. A fresh coat of roof paint is never a bad idea. Also check the gutters and make sure there is no blockages or cracks.

Take a look at the gates and if there are wooden gates, maybe a varnish could make them look as good as new. If you have electrical gates, make sure they can open and close properly. Check the rails of the gates and make sure that large gates are opening and closing smoothly on the gates and that there is no grass or plants in the way. Iron or steel gates also need a fresh coat of paint every now and again.

Check windows and window frames and make sure there are no cracks or chips. Wooden frames should be varnished every year to make sure the wood doesn’t rot or chip.

Fix all cracks in walls and wash walls before painting. Use the correct paint for your house outside, as this will last for up to seven years. Check garage doors and paint or varnish them as required.

Test all outside taps and make sure they are all in good working condition and that they don’t drip after closing them.

Clean up any unnecessary rubbish and tidy up the yard. Now you can start spending more time and money on your garden and lawn and create the fairytale garden that you’ve always wanted. There is no use having a beautiful garden against chipped walls and broken window frames. It is important to get to the basics first and make sure everything is well maintained and in working condition, before starting to plant new plants and spend money on gardening and water features that look pretty.

1. Failing to plan is planning to fail

This is a very old saying but it is still applicable to almost every aspect of our daily lives. Gardening is no different. If you don’t draw up a plan before starting, you are definitely planning on failure. You need to make a sketch of your garden and what you want to do with it. It is wise to go to a nursery (or other professional gardeners) and find out which plants need sunlight and which ones can survive in shade. Find out how big certain plants will grow and where the best spot is for your plants and bushes.

2. There are other options

Most people prefer a lawn or at least a small piece of grass, especially those who have small children or pets. But remember that the old “green carpet” might not be suitable to your lifestyle if you are away constantly or travel a lot. Not many people realise this, but there are alternatives to having a lawn. White river stones are very popular and obviously needs no maintenance. There are so many things you can do, especially if you don’t have a very large space. Concrete bricks with crusher dust between look very neat and you don’t have to spend your Saturdays mowing the lawn.

3. Colour schemes are important

Remember that the colour you choose for your walls are very important. You want it to blend in with the garden and the rest of your house. A neutral colour is always the best option as the chances that you will grow sick of it are a lot slimmer than choosing a bright colour. It is also important to remember that if you would want to sell your house one day, most people prefer a neutral or white coloured house to a pink or blue or green house.

4. Irrigation is a good option for travellers

If you travel a lot, it is a good idea to invest in an automatic irrigation system. This way you don’t have to worry about what is going to happen to your beautiful garden and lawn when you are not there. It is convenient to ask a friend or relative to water your plants while you are away, but it is a time-consuming exercise and most people simply don’t have the time to water someone else’s garden on a daily basis.

5. Practicality plays a big part

Of course you want a beautiful garden, but you want one that is practical too. Don’t plant large trees next to the swimming pool as the roots might lift the brick paving later on and it will most likely shed its leaves into the pool during winter and autumn. Make sure the larger plants and bushes are planted at the back and smaller plants and bushes are in front, otherwise the small plants will not get sufficient sunlight and water.

It is important to speak to professionals when deciding to redo your garden because many of us don’t have the necessary expertise on different plants and compost to achieve a truly beautiful garden. There are many gardening books on sale and you need to make sure you know what you are doing. Creating a garden from scratch is a big job but there are few things in life that gives you the satisfaction that a beautiful garden that you created yourself does.

You will need a permit to build a deck, so before starting, get the permit. The purpose of a permit is to ensure that your deck is build with the correct safety requirements and on a safe place and will not collapse. By getting a permit you can prevent a huge tragedy.

If you consider doing it yourself (although you will probably still need professional help), you must ensure that u use the correct safety precautions to prevent your deck from collapsing or wearing out. You must use the correct tools and materials to build your deck. The building site must be suitable for delivery trucks ant the storing of the materials.

Ask a professional for advice on which material is best for the specific needs of your deck. Make sure you know how to maintain the material you choose and the costs of maintenance. It is pointless to build a deck which you cannot afford to maintain and therefore only use it for a few years.

The support of the deck is a very important aspect. The amount of support a deck needs depends on the size of the deck and what you want to use it for. If the deck is attached to your house, it will need a little less support than a free standing deck. If you want to use your deck for partying, you must consider the amount of weight the deck must be able to carry and also how frequently you want to use it. Plan carefully on the size of the deck to ensure you have enough space to fulfill your specific needs. Ask a professional to help you with the planning, they know all the important aspects needed to consider to build a deck ant they will also know how and were to apply for the specific permit that you will need.

The correct location for your deck and the way you want to access it is also among the important points to consider before starting. It can make a huge difference in how much you are able to enjoy the new deck.

A deck could provide a relaxing and entertaining area at your house so be sure to plan carefully and follow all the safety measures to prevent a big disaster.
 

Tip #1

First, this is one time doing things the old-fashioned way may not be entirely the best idea. Get one of the many good software packages to help you design your deck. It won't cut wood, but they're terrific at helping you visualize the result. They provide design alternatives, materials lists, tools needed, measurements and sometimes even building codes.

Tip #2

Once you have careful plans you need materials. Pressure treated 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's and 4 x 4's of pine, cedar or redwood are good choices. But consider also the newer alternatives. Several manufacturers offer composites that look and feel very much like wood, especially from further away than a few feet. Though the initial outlay is higher, they'll far outlast even stained wood. They require no staining or painting every few years and are stronger and less subject to warping.

Tip #3

Every deck needs a strong foundation. Unless you have the tools and skills to level prepare ground, create good concrete pier holes and pour concrete, then apply perfectly vertical anchors at the proper moment, this is a step you may want professional help for. All other steps are well within the reach of the average do-it-yourself'er with a little assistance.

Tip #4

Building codes in most localities determine the required distance between support piers. Within those limits, though, you have some choice. Since most lumber comes in 8 foot or 12 foot lengths, making support distances equal to or less than that leads to fewer cuts. Make it easy on yourself.

Tip #5

In most designs, ledger boards lay up against the house to support the joists (support beams under the walking surface). Some designs have Z-shaped flashing that lays up against the house, on the ledger board top and side surfaces.

If placed correctly that can work well. But metal flashing can warp with temperature changes. Nail or screw holes can leave small entrances for water. Sealing the flashing is one extra step that requires skill and care.

To avoid the hassle and avoid moisture buildup – leading to mold, corrosion, etc – move the ledger board away from the wall slightly with metal washers. That can also eliminate the need to remove siding.

Tip #6

Use screws and bolts wherever possible, not nails. Even the best nails rust. Stain, used on most decks, doesn't stick well to them, eventually leaving them exposed. Over time they're more prone to becoming loose. Screws rust, too, of course. But they retain their fastening power far longer.

The downside is: nails are often quicker and easier to hammer in than installing screws or bolts. But with a good power screwdriver attachment to your hand-held drill, that problem is easily solved.

However you choose to build your deck, one old-fashioned idea is still valid: thorough planning, measuring and careful execution avoids costly and unsightly mistakes. Take your time. The results will show.

First, test the condition of your deck by performing a simple test. Drip water from a turkey basting or similar tool onto the surface. If it beads well, refinishing isn't necessary. If it soaks in rapidly, a full treatment is required.

Next, get a few different weather reports. Pick a period of a week where you expect moderate temperatures and low humidity. Several drying intervals will be needed.

Washing – the critical step

Decks wear and weather unevenly. Some areas get heavy foot traffic, others very little. Some parts are exposed to more hours of sunlight, while others are constantly shaded. Those shaded areas often get much less rain, snow and even wind that blows wearing dust across the surface.

But it's important to start with a uniform surface, throughly clean and mildew free and prepared to absorb stain or sealer. Some will require only a mild dish detergent wash with a long handled scrub brush, followed by a rinse from the garden hose.

Ensure that any debris between the slats is removed. Wash away spider webs, leaves, pebbles and so forth. If a hose isn't adequate a stiff paint brush or putty knife may be needed.

For more severely weathered decks, renting a pressure washer is often a low cost, low hassle alternative. Check for ones that deliver at least 1,000 psi of pressure and have nozzles that spray a jet 30 degrees wide or more. Hold the nozzle about 6 inches above the surface and spray slowly in line with the grain, then allow to dry for a few days.

If your deck is more than a couple of years old, you will probably want to pre-treat the wood by using a deck cleaner. Despite the wide variety available, simple oxalic acid solutions still do a perfectly good job. Test the cleaner on a non-conspicuous area before treating the entire surface. Again, allow to dry for a couple of days.

For stubborn mildew buildup a cup of TSP (trisodium phosphate) mixed with a cup of household liquid bleach makes for a good spot remover. Apply, then rinse after 15 minutes.

Stripping and Repairing

After the deck is thoroughly washed and dried, stripping any remaining stain, paint or earlier applied sealer is carried out. At this stage, you'll want to replace any broken screws, cracked boards and make any other needed repairs.

Most recommend doing this first. The advantage to leaving it until after the wash is eliminating any washing of new boards, many of which are specially treated. The downside is you'll have used some material and effort to wash boards you intend to replace.

Allow to dry for a couple of days.

Finishing

Now for the (relatively) easy part.

Select a stain that's water repellent or water proof, don't settle for one that's merely 'water resistant'. Ask for one that has good fiber penetrating ability. Stains that soak in deeply protect best and last longest. Most will contain some kind of mildewcide, but check to be sure and ask about UV protection.

Mask off any metal thresholds, molding, etc. Do nooks and crannies first with a small brush or rag. Apply to the larger surfaces with a smooth nylon or lamb's wool roller. Allow to dry for at least two days before walking on.

Done. Whew…

Damage comes in all forms – cracked tiles, warped or torn shingles, bent flashing – the list is endless. But most of them are a problem for the same reason: the possibility of water damage from a leak.

Most damage that leads to a leak doesn't give you any warning. You find out after the water has already started coming in. But you can turn that problem into an asset.

If the roof isn't too high, steep or slick, you can perform an exterior inspection where you suspect the damage is centered. If your roof is tile or wood shingle, look for the obvious: cracked or broken elements. For asphalt or composite, look for shingles that have slipped out of position or for warping ('fishmouth' or 'loose lap', etc).

In newer, scalloped adobe tile roofs or single roll asphalt, the problem is sometimes less obvious, though. You may have to wet the roof briefly or perform an interior inspection to find the ingress.

Wherever you find a crack or hole put a flashlight at that point if the damage is too small to be seen from the interior. Of course, sometimes sunlight is enough and the flashlight isn't necessary. We're assuming it's cloudy or overcast, during rain threatening conditions.

Now for the interior inspection.

Inside the attic, take a hammer and a few four inch nails with you and step only on the support beams. With luck you'll see the light coming through the crack in the interior. If not, repeat the exterior procedure used to locate cracks or torn sheeting.

Look for moisture on beams. Locating the problem just by looking for water can be a little tricky though. If you've had recent heavy rains, water can flow along beams a long distance from the source of the opening. Try to trace it over and up to the origin.

Once you locate the opening, take a long nail and drive it through the roof as close as possible to the damage. Of course, beware of hitting any electrical wiring, cables, etc. Note this technique is for asphalt or composite, even sometimes wood shingles. It should NOT be used for adobe tile roofs, since it will only cause more damage.

For tile, try squeezing enough toothpaste through the crack to get to the exterior. Toothpaste is not the only option, but it washes away so you don't have the problems associated with using, say, silicone gel. Naturally, if the crack is small enough to be fixed by squeezing some silicone gel into it, do it and call it a day.

If the light technique doesn't work, try locating the crack and take careful measurements from one edge, then another at right angles. This technique is difficult to use in most houses because of varying roof height sections, difficult to access crawl spaces, etc.

The tough part is over, if the crack is in a place that allows re-papering from the interior or replacing of an asphalt shingle or adobe tile from the exterior.

Any major repairs should be undertaken by professionals. But for single shingle or tile replacement, just remove the broken element and replace. For asphalt or wood, nail all four corners.

Sometimes asphalt can simply be nailed or glued back into place, when the problem is minor curling, for example. For tile, carefully chip away the remaining portion. Get the proper size replacement and glue back into place.

For some asphalt repairs, shingle replacement won't be enough. Tarring may be necessary. Except for small, easy to access jobs that's usually best carried out by a professional. Similarly, replacing roofing felt – a type of tar paper used to seal – usually requires skill and experience beyond most do it yourself'ers.

By all means fix what you can yourself, when you can do the job right. But keep in mind the obvious. Water damage can quickly do enough harm to the attic and your ceilings and rugs to justify the cost of professional services.

Correspondingly there are traditional ways and some modern, that help overcome the problem.

If you have metal pipes, try pouring a pan of boiling water slowly down the sink. If there's not too much accumulated water, and the clog isn't too severe, the plug of hair and soap (the typical villains) may be dissolved, freeing the clog. Follow with a steady rinse of hot water.

For plastic pipes, the boiling water method may soften joints presenting a risk of leakage. Unless you know your pipes are made of material that can withstand the heat, it's best to use another method. Some can even stand up to hot grease, which may have cooled and caused the problem in the first place.

For more stubborn clogs an ordinary plunger may do the trick. Be sure to use a cup plunger, not a flange plunger. The latter is shaped for use with toilet bowls.

In double-sided sinks it may be necessary to use two simultaneously or plug up the second hole. Often a towel is sufficient, sometimes you'll need to improvise with a heavy pan, a plastic bowl or some other means.

Plunges should be sharp and short. If pressure is going to relieve the plug, it will need to be high, but not long. If that seems to have worked, once again follow with a long rinse of hot water. That will both cleanse out remaining debris and test the results.

For those serious stoppages, you'll need an augur or at minimum a straightened metal coat-hanger. If you can find the latter anymore! An augur is a stiff, coiled wire typically in a metal housing with a handle for moving the wire.

Take care when using the augur not to puncture pipes or drain traps. Did we mention you should first remove the plastic and/or metal drain stop? Sometimes removing hair and soap from this is enough to clear the passage.

Extend the augur or snake the coat-hanger down a few inches. It will be difficult to distinguish between resistance from curving pipe versus running into the clog, but try. Turn the crank handle firmly, but don't force it.

Be careful not to force the snake or augur to the point that in-pipe traps or filters are broken. Those plastic pieces will make a bigger problem to solve, requiring you to remove the pipe. Some types of augurs can be attached to a drill, but if the clog is that severe you'll generally want to try other methods first.

As a next to last resort, chemical drain cleaners can be useful. Used according to the directions, they're safe for pipes and people. Always be prepared to wash off any that contacts your hands or arms, and wear safety goggles if there's any risk of splashing.

Really severe clogs may require removal of the pipe. Usually it's the bend in the U-shaped pipe that contributes to the clog. But if you can't clear the clog without removal, you may or may not make any better progress having the pipe in hand. Sometimes a plumber is your only remaining option.

Take a hammer and a flat-head screwdriver, with a thin blade and flat, sturdy handle and tap the pin on the bottom hinge upward. Try to get it about 7/8 of the way out then stop. Tap the top pin up the same amount.

Pins can stick for any number of reasons. If the door hasn't been used for a while, or if the hinges are rusty or painted over, you may find it necessary to apply rust remover or paint remover first. Usually tapping with persistent, sharp blows is enough to do the job, however. Avoid scraping the frame with the blade of the screwdriver.

At this stage, it's helpful to have a partner to ensure the door doesn't fall after the pins are completely removed. Remove the bottom pin first, while holding the edge of the door to prevent movement. Take care to keep your fingers out of the space between the inner door edge and the frame. If the door moves, you'll get a nasty pinch. Holding, or with your partner holding, the outer edge of the door remove the top pin.

With luck, the door will still be balanced on the hinges and you can insert your fingers into the inner edge and lift the door away. If necessary, grab the outer edge and the top and lift away.

Provided the old door isn't too warped, it can be useful for size comparison with the new door. New doors sometimes need to have the bottom trimmed an inch or two. Trimming is best carried out at the location you bought the new door, if possible. Measure the old one before you purchase.

If you need to replace the hinges, unscrew the hinges from the frame and the old door. If you plan to reuse the old hinges, now is a good time to clean them and dust the hinge cracks with carbon or silicon powder.

It's possible to use sewing machine oil or light grease to lubricate hinges. But, over time, that causes them to accumulate dirt and grit and eventually wear and squeak. A better method involves using a kind of powder popular with professional locksmiths.

This very fine carbon or silicon powder is sprayed inside the lock to keep tumblers rotating smoothly. It makes for a good lubricant for hinges, too, and can be easily wiped away cleanly.

Check the door frame and ensure that the screw holes will stand up well to reuse. If necessary, fill with wood putty, let dry, then drill a small starter hole for new screws.

Screw the refurbished or new hinge into the door frame. Measure and trim the new door to size and attach the hinge. Set the door onto the hinges and work the top pin in first about half way. Then work the bottom pin in part way (at least half, if possible).

Tap the pins in the rest of the way. Congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Make sure all doors and windows are locked and that the locks are of good quality and cannot be opened easily. Offenders might see a sliding door or window as an opportunity as it can easily be lifted out of its tracks. Harden the glass near doors with special break proof laminating. Special safety clips can be used on sliding windows or doors. Install bars in your basement as it is a popular entry point amongst burglars.

When you go on vacation make sure that your home does not appear unoccupied. Ask your neighbours to pick up your newspaper daily and keep your post box empty. Also ask them to park their car in your driveway occasionally. Ask someone to mow your lawn. Use automated light timers to switch different lights on or off at night. Motion detector lights can be used outside. Timers can also be connected to a radio in order to create sound during the day. Ask your neighbour to check on your house at least every 48 hours. Neighbours should look out for each other and a neighbourhood watch could also be organized.

An alarm system is also a good precaution. Ensure that such system makes a loud enough noise when tripped off. Affix a visible sign on your home to show potential burglars that it is secured by a security system as it could help to make the burglar change his mind.

Mark your valuables with your driver's license number. If the stolen goods are found, the police will be able to track you down easily. Keep as few as possible valuables at your home. It is a good idea to video tape or photograph your possessions or property once a year. Do not store this information on site. In the case of fire or burglary you will have an up to date record of your possessions.

A few things to consider before buying a safe is:

• does it have to be fire proof or only to prevent theft of valuables
• does your insurance company require a safe
• do you have important computer data to protect
• the size of the valuables you want to store in your safe

A safe should be bolted down to a wall or floor for maximum security.

A floor safe is a good option if you have limited space, but it can be more difficult to retrieve your valuables when in a hurry.

Wall safes can be hidden behind a wall hanging, but usually don't have very high cash ratings. Cash rating is the amount carried in your safe, covered by your insurance company.

There are 4 types of safe locks. Combination, key operated, electronic digital keypad, or 2 or more of the above combined.

Combination locks are quite reliable and can be changed by the user, although not an easy procedure.

Key operated safes are also reliable when the key is kept safe by the user. It is very cost effective and can stay reliable for years.

Digital locks are very convenient. The code can instantly be changed if needed, but the batteries need to be changed/charged every few months.

Often we come across digital keypads but while they can offer safety, the keypad can easily fail.

A safe is a longterm purchase and can provide safety for your valuables for many years.